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Shops and residences, later Cafe Denat and Café Florentino, 78-82 Bourke Street, Melbourne

Butler, Graeme1985
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Title:
Shops and residences, later Cafe Denat and Café Florentino, 78-82 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Date of work:
1985
Reference number:
BIF-CITY 101224 1
Level of description:
Item from Collection: Heritage Collection (HC)
Type of materials:
Graphic materialsTextual material
Part of:
Access restrictions:
UnrestrictedOpen access.
Use restrictions:
UnrestrictedPlease contact City of Melbourne Libraries about obtaining permission to reproduce images.
General notes:
Period: Early VictorianSee: 76, 82 Bourke Street.ASSOCIATED RESEARCH ADDED BY GRAEME BUTLER:.GRAEME BUTLER 1985-7 MELBOURNE CENTRAL ACTIVITIES DISTRICT CONSERVATION STUDYStatement of SignificanceHistory(refer 76 and 82 Bourke Street)The shell of 78-80 is shown in photographs from the 1870s, as the western part of what was once a row of five two-storey shops and residences. By the 1880s, occupiers included F.H.Marryat in (80) and William Mentiplay, the herbalist and representative of the Australian Botanical Institute, in (78). The Salvation Army depot was next door, in (82). Around 1900, a Mr. Payne (later Leon Moureau) ran a wine bar in (78) and Bourke's confectionery was available at (80), setting the scene for a culinary future for the row. Samuel Wynn (cofounder of Australian Wines Ltd. and the Wynn family winemaking empire) had (78) by the 1920s and called it the Cafe Denat.The French Swiss Calixte Denat, claimed previous royal patronage at the Court of Kaiser Willhelm II, but in Melbourne he offered grande cuisine for the politicians, bohemians and intellegensia, from 1910, at 174-6 Exhibition Street (now demolished). All of this good-will was sold to Wynn, in 1920, and shortly after Denat fell to his death under a tram.Wynn re-established the cafe a little closer to the source of his trade, at 78-80 Bourke Street, commencing renovations which, in 1927-8, created the upstairs interior known to many as the Cafe Florentino, adding the `New Dining Room' (extended later) and, downstairs, the `New Wine Lounge' in a similar mode to the existing decor. Architect, John W. Wright, continued the deep timber panelling around the dining rooms, he designed panelled counters and suspended timber-clad canopies over. Part of this renovation were the murals, set into the wall panels, executed under the direction of of noted muralist Napier Waller. The cafe was then run by Mrs. E. Wynn.Entry to the restaurant was central to the old shop pair (80), flanked on the left by the wine cafe and bottle department (78). Both bar and bottle shop were long and narrow, offering standing room only and, beyond, was the bottling room, bottle washing room and service areas, offering wine freshly bottled and direct from the grower. Upstairs there was a phalanx of culinary preparation areas and the large open dining room, then bisected by the stair. The `New' room lay in one corner. By 1928, the existing new upper level windows were in place, but the present ground-level was yet to come. By the mid-1930s, Renaldo Massoni had established the Florentino and, after World War Two, displaced a long tenancy by Edments and absorbed number 82, leaving 78 as the bottle shop and bar, known in the 1950s as Massoni & Tsindos retail wine shop.DescriptionA parapeted and stuccoed two-storey conservative Renaissance Revival row house pair (former quintet), with a slightly gabled parapet and simple main cornice, each divided off with blocks adorned with lion-head masks. Bracketed sills survive from previous windows, as does the dentilated string mould at the first storey floor line, again framed between bracketed blocks.External IntegrityUpper level windows have been moved, as part of the interior renovation, leaving leaded lights set in steel frames. The ground level also has been replaced with sympathetic 19th Century shopfront form on No 78. Signs and illuminated lamps, service cables, etc. have been attached to the building.SignificanceAs an interior, the two upstairs dining rooms (although subtly changed) embody a culinary institution which commenced as (and remained for a long period) Melbourne's most famous European wine cafe and meeting place of intellectuals. As a period cafe interior, it retains a high integrity and is distinguished by the Waller murals which line the `New Room.' It also, presumably, reflects the tastes of Samuel Wynn, one of Australia's more renowned wine makers..Victorian Heritage Register H0493 78-80 Bourke StreetWhat is significant?Nos.78-80 Bourke Street was built as part of a terrace of shops erected in 1860 for Moses Benjamin. Benjamin was a member of a family prominent in Melbourne's early commercial development. The buildings' association with Melbourne's wine merchant and restaurateur families date from the establishment of a wine cafe in 1900, and ownership from 1918 by Samuel Wynn, co-founder of Australian Wines.From 1918 the Wynn family ran Nos.78-80 as the 'Colonial Wine Shop' and after some years of living upstairs they converted the first floor to the Cafe Denat. Wynn re-established the popular French Cafe Denat from Exhibition Street to Bourke Street to be closer to Parliament House, the principal source of his trade. The Massoni family owned the cafe from 1928 and in 1944 they incorporated No.82 Bourke Street into the existing building. From 1928 the Florentino Cafe developed as one of Melbourne's leading Italian restaurants and was patronised by leading political, social and artistic figures such as Sir John Monash, Lord and Lady Casey and Australian art patrons John and Sunday Reed. There have been significant periods of alterations, including changes to No.82 in the 1920s by Frank Stapley, renovations in 1928 by John W Wright, and alterations in 1958 by Robin Boyd. The buildings' interior spaces still exhibit the fashionable and celebrated decor created since the 1920s, including the sixteen intact dining room murals depicting Renaissance Italy executed under the direction of artist Napier Waller, the renowned designer of murals and stained glass.How is it significant?The Cafe Florentino buildings are of historical and social significance to the State of Victoria.Why is it significant?The buildings known as Cafe Florentino are historically significant for their links since 1860 with prominent Melbourne political and social figures beginning with first owner Moses Benjamin. Historical links with other prominent Melbourne citizens include the Wynn and Massoni families. Historically the buildings have associations with notable architects and artists who have supervised alterations, including Frank Stapley, John W Wright and Robin Boyd and Napier Waller.The Cafe Florentino buildings are socially significant for reflecting the evolution of a culinary institution to become Melbourne's most famous European wine cafe. It remains the meeting place of intellectuals and politicians in Melbourne's theatre district. The buildings have been continuously used as a wine cafe or restaurant since 1900. They illustrate early twentieth century wine selling and restaurant decor and character, including the Cafe Denat. Today the Cafe Florentino is one of Melbourne's leading Italian restaurants..NIGEL LEWIS DECEMBER 1976, HISTORIC AND ARCHITECTURAL SURVEY OF THE CENTRAL CITY OF MELBOURNE BOURKE STREET, EAST AREA 8 OF THE SURVEY COMMISSIONED BY THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS PRESERVATION COUNCIL: p43-4M25, L40NAME: Cafe FIorentinoADDRESS: 78-82 Bourke StreetTITLE DETAILS:CONSTRUCTION DATE: 78 & 80 1860,82 - 1853ALTERATIONS/ADDITIONS: 82 façade replaced after 1890.PROPRIETOR: no. 82 - A. Edments after 1900FIRST OCCUPIER/USE: no. 82 - Fancygoods shopPREDOMINANT O/USE: CafeRECOMMEDATlONS:These buindings are not recommended for addition to the Historic Btilldings Register but are important elements in !he Parliament HouseEnvironmental Area and should be protected under the recommended planning controlsCAFE FLORENTINOM25 L4078-82 Bourke StreetNo. 80 This building has not changed description in the rate books since 1853. The facade, from photographic evidence, appears to have been added after 1890, probably sometime after Alfred Edments established his fancy goods store there in 1890 (82). Edments occupied this building until 1934 when it became a grocer's shop until 1942. it was occupied by the Cafe Florentino in 1944.The building is only distinguished by its dominant pediment which is supported by a plain entablature and pilasters. The main feature of the building is its present shop front which allows glimpses of the diners.78-80 These buildings are part of a terrace of eight which' were erected in 1860. They appear to have been used for general shops. By 1900 the fust wine cafe was established in no. 78 and the use has continued since. From 1918 the Wynn family ran no. 78-80 as the Colonial Wine Shop and after some years of living upstairs, converted the first floor to the Denat Cafe. They leased the buildings to the Massoni family in 1928 who named the wine bar and restaurant the Cafe Florentino. After a fire during the 1930's the upstairs dining room was redecorated by pupils of Napier Wailer (who was responsible for the murals in Myer Mural Hall) including Colvan Smith, Ann Montgomery and Jean Drummond. The ceiling was originally lit by indirect lighting with the plaster work executed by Picton Hopkins. The woodwork was manufactured by Andrewartha and the original chairs are still in use. 1The buildings have been altered from the original by enlargement of the ground and first floor windows. Their charm now lies in their present identity as the Cafe Florentino.RECOMMENDATION:These buildings are of early date and pleasant appearance, but are not of sufficient individual merit to warrant recommendation for addition to the Historic Buildings Register. They are important elements of the Parliament House Environmental Area and should be preserved under the proposed planning controls.1. Information courtesy of Mr. Leon Massoni.
Record types:
Research and reports
Record number:
1190636
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